Roskachestvo* specialists checked condensed milk's quality: study results

As part of the audit, 28 samples of condensed milk of the most popular brands were studied. The products that were examined were manufactured in Russia (with the exception of two, one of which was made in Kazakhstan and the other in Belarus). In addition, the experts studied two additional samples of condensed product with milk fat substitutes indicated on the label, but they were not included in the rating. The audit was carried out on 95 safety and quality parameters.

It is noted that 26 goods were manufactured in accordance with GOST (state standard), and 4 - according to TU (technical specifications). The state standard has more stringent requirements.

Condensed milk and condensed milk are not the same thing.

Contrary to popular belief, "condensed milk" is not an informal, shorthand name for condensed milk. These are different products that differ in composition, standards used in the manufacture, as well as in cost.

So, condensed milk should contain only milk and sugar. If the composition contains vegetable fats or starch, it turns into a milk-containing product, which may be on the market under names like "condensed milk", "varenka", etc.

Sometimes unscrupulous producers, taking advantage of the ignorance of citizens, try to pass off condensed milk as better condensed milk. For example, the packaging of milk-containing products studied by Roskachestvo - "Jubilee" from Glavprodukt and Ruslad - was designed in traditional colors for condensed milk (blue, light blue, white). This is not a very fair approach.

Signs of counterfeit

In the studied samples of whole condensed milk of the Glavprodukt, Lenta and Tyazhin brands, Roskachestvo experts found phytosterols, which indirectly indicate the presence of vegetable fat.

On the packaging of the Tyazhin product, it was indicated that it was produced using whey. However, experts have identified undeclared vegetable fats in the composition of this sample, which turns this product into a milk-containing condensed product.

Roskachestvo explained that some manufacturers can replace milk fat not only with phytosterols, but also with animal fat. Today, there are no reliable methods to detect animal fat, however, a mismatch in the fatty acid composition may indicate falsification, and such a deviation was detected in samples from Lenta and Glavproduct. In the latter case, the product also contained pectin, a thickener that should not be present in condensed milk (real condensed milk does not need thickeners).

Microbiology, preservatives and food additives

The researchers note that when checking the samples, no radionuclides, heavy metals, aflatoxins and antibiotics were found. However, everything is not so good with microbiological indicators - E. coli was detected in two samples (these are products of the Lyubimoe Moloko and Prostokvashino trademarks).

Seven samples did not meet the requirements of QMAFAnM (an indicator of total contamination) - we are talking about goods of the Lenta, Dairy Union, Dairy Country, Favorite Classics, Favorite Milk, Belgorod Dairy Products and Spar trademarks. Also, foreign impurities (sand, feed particles, etc.) were found in 12 samples.

Some samples contained sorbic acid not declared by the manufacturer, which is a preservative (Belgorod Dairy Products, Glavprodukt, Lenta, Dairy Union, Dairy Station, Prostokvashino). 12 samples also contained another preservative, ascorbic acid. This substance is safe, but if it is present in the product, it must be indicated on the packaging.

Sugar content

In accordance with the requirements of GOST, the proportion of sugar in condensed milk should be 43.5-45.5%. This indicator was exceeded by the product "Gustiar" (51.64%).

This product was made according to specifications, so GOST is not violated, but there is a nuance - the protein content in condensed milk cannot be lower than 5.0%, but with sucrose above 47.0% this is simply impossible. Consequently, the technical regulations and production conditions were violated, Elena Yurova, head of the laboratory of technochemical control of the FGBNU VNIMI, comments on this information.

In the products "Dairy Country" and "SKZ" the sugar content was also exceeded - 46.94% and 46.55%, respectively.

Other product properties

One of the important characteristics of condensed milk is the degree of viscosity. Deviations from the norm in this case indicate a violation of the preparation technology or recipe. During the test, it was found that the samples of the trademarks "Glavprodukt", "Lenta" and "Myasnov" have an increased viscosity.

The structure of condensed milk may change during storage - it becomes more viscous and (for example, if the technology is violated) crystallizes. That is, crystallization always indicates a violation of technology or recipe (sugar is more than normal). Crystallization was noted during the study of the product "Gustiar".

Condensed milk made in accordance with GOST should have a sweet and clean taste, with the smell of pasteurized milk and without any foreign flavors. A not too pronounced taste is acceptable if the product is made using skim milk. Experts have identified a taste of caramel in some products - there is nothing to worry about, but high-quality condensed milk should not smell like caramel. In addition, the product "Lubimoe Moloko" and "Dairy Country" had a strange "soapy" taste, and the sample from "SKZ" generally had a musty taste.

According to experts, only two of the goods purchased for the study can be recognized as meeting the leading standard of Roskachestvo: products of the Alekseevskoye and Irbitskoye trademarks can apply for the Russian Quality Mark.

*Russian quality system